Royal shoes link for Leicester

A pair of shoes that were made in Leicester for The Queen’s grandmother have been loaned to De Montfort University (DMU) by the great-grandson of the man who made them more than 100 years ago.

Jim Cowling – a chiropodist from Sileby in Leicestershire – contacted the university when he heard about Her Majesty’s visit to DMU.

Mr Cowling thought that DMU might be interested in seeing the shoes that were made for Princess Mary of Teck – who would later become Queen Mary – following her visit to his ancestor’s Leicester shop in around 1895.

“My great-great-grandfather, Sam Cowling, established his Leicester footwear business in 1840,” he said.

“When he died in 1863, his son – also called Sam – took over.

“By the time of the royal visit to Leicester in around 1895, Cowling’s of High Street had been established for nearly 60 years and was renowned for its quality shoes and its aristocratic clientele.

“The story that was passed down my family was that Thomas Cook – the founder of the package tour and an influential local businessman – introduced my great-grandfather to Princess Mary during her visit to the city, which led to the invitation to his shop.”

Princess Mary – who was also known as Princess May – would have been about 28 at the time of her visit. She admired the shoes on display at Cowling's, which featured a new modern style of patterning, and was delighted when Sam Cowling offered to make her a pair.

The natural tan lace-up ankle boots, made with the finest kid leather and lined with silk, were duly made up and sent to the Princess in London.

Two years later, the boots were returned to Sam Cowling’s shop, with a request to re-heel the much-loved footwear.

“Instead of re-heeling the old boots, my great-grandfather made the Princess a brand new pair, identical in every way to the original ones,” said Mr Cowling.

“The new ones were sent to the palace – while the old ones have been treasured by my family ever since.”

The tiny boots – a very narrow modern size 3 – have been examined by Kevin Guildford, head of footwear design at DMU.

“The skill that has gone into making these boots is extraordinary,” he said.

“The way that the insole and sole have been joined together, the neatness of the stitching and the quality of the silk lining are all quite remarkable.

“And the heel, which is made up of individual layers of leather nailed together, is pure craftsmanship.

“Footwear manufacture has changed a lot in 115 years, as has footwear design, but these little lace-up boots wouldn’t look out of place on the high street today.”

A photograph of Sam Cowling’s shop at the end of the 19th century shows that he was quick to capitalise on his royal patronage. ‘Patronized by HRH Princess May’ can clearly be seen on his shop window – while the inside of the boots that he made for the Princess bear the royal crest and the words ‘Sam Cowling, Leicester: Court Bootmaker’

But, unfortunately, the story of Cowling’s shoes ends soon afterwards.

Chronic subsidence affected the building at 12 High Street so badly that Sam Cowling closed the business and retired in around 1902 – and the building was demolished shortly afterwards.

“Princess Mary of Teck – whose husband would become King George V – visited my great-grandfather’s shop at around the time of Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee, which took place in 1897,” said Mr Cowling.

“Now, 115 years later, her grand-daughter, Her Majesty The Queen, is visiting Leicester to mark her own Diamond Jubilee.

“It may just be a happy coincidence but, for me, the two stories make an irresistible link between Leicester’s past and its present.”

The shoes, together with a photograph of Cowling’s shoe shop at 12 High Street and a portrait of Princess Mary of Teck, will be displayed at De Montfort University when Her Majesty The Queen visits the university on Thursday (8 March) at the start of her Diamond Jubilee Tour.

The Queen will be accompanied on her visit to De Montfort University by HRH The Duke of Edinburgh and HRH The Duchess of Cambridge. More information about the visit is available at www.dmu.ac.uk/royalvisit.