Dr Edward Smith

• Textile Chemistry
• Textile Biotechnology
• Natural fibres (bast fibres and wool)
• Dyeing and finishing
• Antimicrobial textile testing

Textile Engineering and Materials (TEAM) Research Group

Research and Innovation Institute - Art, Design and Performance (Full Member)

Click here for a full listing of Edward Smith's publications and outputs.

Selected Publications:

• Prajapati C, Smith E, Kane F, Shen J. (2023) New approaches for textile coloration and surface pattern using enzyme-based biotechnology, Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice (RFTD) 11 (3): 213-236
• Rissanen M, Schlapp-Hackl I, Sawada D, Raiskio S, Ojha K, Smith E, Sixta H. (2023) Chemical recycling of hemp waste textiles via the ionic liquid based dry-jet-wet spinning technology, Textile Research Journal, 93 (11-12): 2545-2557.
• Netithammakorn N, Smith E, Lerpiniere C, Shen J (2021) Peroxidase-catalysed coloration of wool fabrics, Coloration Technology, 137 (2): 93-107.
• Harwood R, Smith E (2020), ‘Testing of natural textile fibres’ in Handbook of Natural Fibres Volume 1: Types, Properties and Factors Affecting Breeding and Cultivation, 2nd Edition (Edited by R M Kozlowski and M Mackiewicz-Talarczyk), Elsevier Ltd, England. pp 535-576.
• Prajapati C, Smith E, Kane F, Shen J (2019) Selective enzymatic modification of wool/polyester blended fabrics for surface patterning, Journal of Cleaner Production, 211: 909-921.
• Prajapati C, Smith E, Kane F, Shen J (2018),Laccase-catalysed coloration of wool and nylon, Coloration Technology, 2018, 134, 423-439.
• Yuan M, Wang Q, Shen J, Smith E, Bai R, Fan X. (2018), Enzymatic coloration and finishing of wool with laccase and polyethylenimine, Textile Research Journal, 88 (16) 1834-1846.
• Shen J, Smith E, Chizyuka M, Prajapati C (2017), Development of durable shrink-resist coating of wool with sol-gel polymer processing, Fibers and Polymers, 18(9), 1769-1779.
• Shen J, Smith E (2015), 'Enzymatic treatments for sustainable textile processing' in the book, Sustainable apparel: production, processing and recycling (Edited by R Blackburn), Woodhead Publishing Ltd, England. pp 119-134

• • Smith E, Shen J. (2012) Enzymatic treatment of wool pre-treated with cetyltrimethylammonium bromide to achieve machine washability. Biocatalysis and Biotransformation, 30 (1), pp. 38-47
  • Smith E, Shen J. (2011) Surface modification of wool with protease extracted polypeptides. Journal of Biotechnology 156: 134-140
  • Smith E, Farrand B, Shen J.  (2010), The removal of lipid from the surface of wool to promote the subsequent enzymatic process with modified protease for wool shrink resistance. Biocatalysis and Biotransformation 28: 329-338
  • Smith E, Schroeder M, Guebitz G, Shen J.  (2010), Covalent bonding of protease to different sized enteric polymers and their potential use in wool processing. Enzyme and Microbial Technology 47:105-111
  • Smith E, Williams JT, Walsh SE, Painter P. (2010), Comparison of antimicrobial textile treatments, In: Medical and Healthcare Textiles: Proceedings of the Fourth International Conference on Healthcare and Medical Textiles. editors. Kennedy JF, Anand SC, Miraftab M, Rajendran S. Woodhead Textile Series  No. 75. ISBN 1845692241
  • Smith E, Zhang Q, Shen J, Schroeder M, Silva C. (2008) Modification of Esperase by covalent bonding to Eudragit polymers L 100 and S 100 for wool fibre surface treatment. Biocatalysis and Biotransformation, 26 (5), 391-398. 

Current research interests include:

• Chemical processing of bast fibre (flax and hemp) and developing analytical techniques in assessing fibre quality of both feedstock and processed fibre.
• Chemical modification of enzymes and processing to improve the performance of wool fibre/ fabric.
• Enzyme coloration of textiles.
• Application of enzyme biotechnology for recycling, reuse and recovery of fibres and dyes from textile waste.
• Functional finishing of textiles.

• Textile coloration
• Properties, structure, identification and analysis of textile fibres and yarns
• Textile sustainability

• PhD in Colour and Polymer Chemistry (University of Leeds)
• MSc in Conservation Science ( De Montfort University, Leicester)
• BSc (Hons) in Chemistry (University of East Anglia, Norwich)

Currently teach and supervise in the following modules:

• FBUY 1103/1104:  Design & Development/ Fashion Business: Textile Materials: Coloration and Fibres & Yarns
• FTEX 1002: Explore Materials Construction: Coloration and Fibres & Yarns
• FBUY 3102: Research Project
• SITT 5001: Textile Technology and Sustainability
• SITT 5003: Product Performance
• SITT 5004/5005: MSc Major Project

Publications Award Committee (PAC) member of the Society of Dyers & Colourists (SDC) since 2022

Royal Society of Chemistry – Associate Member (AMRSC)

 

Research Projects involved in within TEAM Research at DMU

Project co-lead: Scaling-up bioprocesses for fibre separation of mixed waste for circularity (BBSRC Follow-on Fund) - February 2026 to January 2028.

 

Researcher: Advanced nanoengineered treatment of textiles: PFAS-free amphiphobicity (EPSRC) – September 2025 to February 2028.

 

UK lead / consultant: Preserving Nigeria’s Cultural Textiles Heritage Through Sustainable Adire Technology (Innovate UK Business Connect Global Innovation Network: Global Alliance Africa Lead Customer Programme) – October 2024 to March 2025.

 

Principal Investigator: AKT with Stephen Walters & Sons Limited (UKRI Accelerated Knowledge Transfer 3) – October 2024 to February 2025.

 

Associate: AKT with Generation Phoenix (UKRI Accelerated Knowledge Transfer 3) - October 2024 to February 2025.

 

Co-Investigator/Associate: Reusable period products supporting the UK human and natural environment for health and wellbeing (AHRC – Design Exchange partnerships: design the green transition: round 2) – February 2024 to January 2025.

 

Researcher: ENZBIOTEX - Approaches of enzyme-based biotechnology to achieve textiles recovery and reuse for circularity (BBSRC) – February 2023 to January 2025.

 

Researcher: Development of enzyme-based coloration and coating for sustainable machine washable wool to support the wool industry transition to a circular system (BBNET POC) – October 2021 to September 2022.

 

Project lead / consultant: Process optimisation, fibre evaluation and feedstock augmentation of bast fibre processing for non-woven and textile applications (Commercial funded by Bast Fibre Technologies Inc) – ongoing since September 2020.

 

Research supervision: LEBIOTEX - Laser Enhanced Biotechnology for Textile Design: 3D Colour and Surface Patterning (AHRC) - July 2012 to June 2015.

 

Project lead / consultant: Fibre optimisation and analysis (Commercial funded by NuMax Fibre Technology) – November 2011 to September 2015.

 

Project lead / consultant: CRAiLAR Flax Process Optimisation (Commercial funded by CRAiLAR Technologies Inc.) – September 2010 to July 2015

 

Researcher/ research supervision: SAFEPROTEX – High-Protective Clothing for Complex Emergency Operation (EU FP7) - September 2010 to September 2013.

 

Principal Investigator/ Innovation Fellow: Optimisation of Enzyme Processing of Wool – Follow up (EMDA & EDRF Innovation Fellowship) – March 2010 to August 2010.

 

Principal Investigator/ Innovation Fellow: Optimisation of Enzyme Processing of Wool (EMDA Innovation Fellowship) – March 2009 to August 2009.

 

Researcher: ENZUP – Enzyme Up-grading of Wool Fibres (EU FP6) - January 2007 to September 2008.

Researcher: SMARTEX – The provision of in-depth technical textile research and development resources with business support required implementing specific innovations within textile companies in Leicestershire (LeicesterShire Economic Partnerships) – June 2005 to December 2006.

 

Researcher: PROTEX - Modified Proteases for the Reduction of Felting and Shrinkage of Wool Textiles (EU FP5) – August 2004 to August 2005.

Presenter (Oral):

Smith E., Flax and Linseed Research, BBSRC funded Industry-Academic workshop on “Improving the sustainability of UK agriculture with flax/linseed”, 16th-17th January 2023, Durham,UK

Smith E, Shen J. Surface treatment of wool to achieve hydrophilic fibre and the effect on subsequent dyeing and protease treatment, International Conference on Eco-Dyeing/ Finishing and Green Chemistry, 8th -12th June, 2011, Hangzhou, China. 

Smith E, Shen J. Treatment of wool with enzyme extracted wool polypeptide to achieve shrink resistance, 7th International Conference on Polymer and Textile Biotechnology, 2nd – 4th March, 2011, Milan, Italy.

Smith E, Williams JT, Walsh SE, Painter, P. Comparison of antimicrobial textile treatments,  4th International Conference and Exhibition on Healthcare and Medical Textiles (MEDTEX’07),16th – 18th July 2007,  Bolton, UK.

Smith, E., Comparison of antimicrobial textile test methods, International Biodeterioration Research Group (IBRG) textiles section meeting, 27th October 2006, Copenhagen, Denmark.

Poster presentations:

Smith E, Zhang Q, Farrand B, Kokol V, Shen J. The development of a bio-scouring process for raw wool using protease, International Conference on Eco-Dyeing/ Finishing and Green Chemistry, June 8-12, 2011, Hangzhou, China.

Consultancies undertaken:

• Current ongoing commercial consultancy (since September 2020) with Bast Fibre Technologies Inc (BFTI) focussing on the process optimisation, fibre evaluation and feedstock augmentation of bast fibre (hemp & flax) processing for non-woven and textile applications
• Past commercial consultancy work with CRAiLAR Technologies focussing on bast fibre processing research, development and analysis and with NuMax Fibre Technology and Camira Fabrics focussing on fibre analysis. 

Mutinta Chizyuka (PhD awarded in 2016), “Development of sol-gel technology for textile surface coating to achieve self-cleaning and antibacterial properties” (2^nd Supervisor)

Chetna Prajapati (PhD awarded in 2017), “Biotechnology for textile design: 3D colour and surface patterning” (2^nd Supervisor)

Guoli Li (PhD awarded in 2019), "The effectiveness of orthotics in reducing the hallux valgus angle for patients with mild and moderate hallux valgus", (2^nd Supervisor)

Nalinee Netithammakorn (PhD awarded in 2021), "Bioprocessing of wool and flax textile materials", (2^nd Supervisor)

James Stewart (PhD candidate) “Upcycling of Post-Consumer Food Packaging Materials”, (2^nd Supervisor)

Eden Coe-Jenkins (PhD candidate) “Enzyme-mediated breakdown of Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET)” (2^nd supervisor)

Megan Melhuish (PhD candidate) “Hygiene Control for reuseable sanitary products, exploring product safety and development management” (2^nd supervisor)

Worku Molla (PhD candidate) "Recycling and reuse of waste wool" (2^nd Supervisor)

Research & Innovation Grant Funded Projects:

Funder: BBSRC Follow-on Fund

Project: Scaling-up bioprocesses for fibre separation of mixed waste for circularity

Role: Project co-lead

Dates: February 2026 to January 2028

 

Funder: Innovate UK Accelerated Knowledge Transfer 3 (AKT3)

Project: De Montfort University and Stephen Walters & Sons Limited

Role: Project lead

Dates: October 2024 to February 2025

 

Funder: Innovate UK Business Connect Global Innovation Network: Global Alliance Africa Lead Customer Programme

Project: Preserving Nigeria’s Cultural Textiles Heritage Through Sustainable Adire Technology

Role: UK lead

Dates: October 2024 to March 2025

 

Funder: East Midlands Development Agency (EMDA) and European Regional Development Fund (ERDF) Innovation Fellowship

Project:  Optimisation of Enzyme Processing of Wool – Follow up (HIRF 447F)

Role: Principal Investigator

Dates: March 2010 to August 2010

 

Funder: East Midlands Development Agency (EMDA) Innovation Fellowship

Project: Optimisation of Enzyme Processing of Wool (HIRF 385)

Role: Principal Investigator

Dates: March 2009 to August 2009

 

Commercially Funded Projects:

Funder: Bast Fibre Technologies Inc (BFTI)

Project: Process optimisation, fibre evaluation and feedstock augmentation of bast fibre (hemp & flax) processing for non-woven and textile applications

Role: Principal Investigator

Dates: ongoing since September 2020

 

Funder: NuMax Fibre Technology

Project: Fibre Optimisation & Analysis

Role: Principal Investigator

Dates: November 2011 to September 2015

 

Funder: CRAiLAR Technologies Inc

Project: Flax Process Optimisation (Project Tiger)   

Role: Principal Investigator

Dates: September 2010 to July 2015

 

 

• • Lee J.A., Harwood R.J., Smith E.J., Wright A.E., (2020) Bleaching and shive reduction process for non-wood fiber, US Patent Application No. 16/924,296
  • Lee J.A., Harwood R.J., Smith E.J. (2015) Bleaching and shive reduction process for non-wood fiber, US Patent Application Publication No. US2015/0337486 A1
  • Shen J, Smith E.J. (2010) Treatment of wool with enzyme extracted wool polypeptide. GB Patent Application 1015962.2 (2010)

 

Session Chair: I chaired an Oral Presentation Session, Session A-4 on Functional Textiles (10th June 2011) at the International Conference on Eco-Dyeing/ Finishing and Green Chemistry, June 8-12, 2011, Hangzhou, China.

Peer Review: I have refereed research papers for the following journals: